‘It may have saved my life…’
The wave itself has been known by many names, across many generations of ambitious wave-riders:
It is 'Ehukai' - a native Hawaiian reference for the misty sea spray which hangs in the air along the coast, born from plumes of fine salt water droplets sheared by the wind from the tops of large waves as they rise, pitch, and cascade over themselves.
It is 'Banzai' - a derrivative of the WWII-era Japanese war cry: "tennōheika banzai" (天皇陛下万歳). The history on this is murky: in consideration of the Hawaiian Kingdom's decades-long, pre-American fellowship with the historic Empire of Japan, Hawaii's plentiful Japanese-American demographic, its resident population of Japanese nationals, and their presence in Hawaii's rural communities - including O'ahu's North Shore - the correlation of wave's location and the war cry could have had numerous incidental and contributing sources. Yet most surfers might agree that the idea of hurling oneself into a large Ehukai wave matches the vigor and spirit of a zealous warrior hurling themselves headlong into battle.
It is the 'Pipeline' - an off-hand nickname suggestion made by Mike Diffenderfer to Bruce Brown in 1961, as Brown was filming Phil Edwards surf the break for the first time in the modern era. Edward's talent, bravado, and daring cemented his reputation as a North Shore surfing pioneer, and enshrined the 'Pipeline' nickname in the minds of surfers in every generation to follow.
It is "the proving grounds" - spiritual home of Da Hui o He'e Nalu - and a necessary venue for ambitious local riders to prove their skill, earn a reputation, and claim respect in the most intense lineup in all of surfing.
It is also, arguably, the world's most dangerous wave.
The Backdoor Shootout, presented by Da Hui O He'e Nalu is a unique multi-day team-based surf meet, held in Pipeline's largest, most picturesque, and most challenging conditions. Eight teams of surfers compete throughout this a non-elimination event in categories ranging from prone shortboards, longboards, and Stand-Up Paddleboards among other disciplines.
During the event, competitor Kai Lenny - an accomplished, multi-disciplinary wave-rider and Maui native - wiped out. The moment of the incident didn't draw much notice on the broadcast until after Lenny had been escorted to the sand, apparently under his own power. Many on the beach, as well as judges in the stand, and those watching the broadcast over the internet were likely unaware of how bad Lenny's situation was. Eventually, everyone - but especially Lenny - would understand how much worser off it could have been.
The shell of Lenny’s specially-designed helmet had cracked wide open under what can only be described as an incredible and catastrophic impact - either with the volcanic reef, or his board, or possibly both. The helmet - in Lenny's words - might have ‘saved his life’.
Contributing to a KHON2 News report, on behalf of Blue Planet Surf, KAIROU Waterman owner and lead designer Mark Mauikanehoalani Lovell comments on Kai Lenny's life-threatening incident, and the value of wearing personal protective equipment in challenging and dangerous surf.
Video of Lenny’s wipeout, and its aftermath can be found here:
KAIROU Waterman send our aloha to Kai Lenny and his family. We wish him a quick and full recovery.
